🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.